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Skincare acids are powerful active ingredients use to target skincare concerns. They are classified based on the function they serve.
EXFOLIATING ACIDS
AHAs, BHAs, and PHAs are three types of acids commonly used in skincare for exfoliation(Shedding dead skin cells) and improving skin texture, each with distinct properties and benefits for various skin types.
Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs)are water-soluble acids derived mainly from fruits, milk, and sugarcane. They exfoliate the skin surface by loosening dead skin cells, promoting cell turnover, brightening the complexion, and improving signs of aging like fine lines and uneven pigmentation. AHAs tend to work on the skin’s surface and are beneficial for dry or sun-damaged skin
Glycolic Acid
Glycolic acid is an Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA) derived from sugarcane known for its powerful exfoliation properties. It works by loosening the bonds between dead skin cells, promoting cell turnover, and revealing brighter, smoother skin. For melanin-rich skin, it is effective in treating hyperpigmentation, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), age spots, and melasma by promoting shedding of pigmented cells and interrupting melanin production. However, careful use is recommended to avoid irritation or triggering PIH, especially for sensitive skin types. It is often included in chemical peels and topical formulations and considered suitable for darker skin when used conservatively with sun protection
Lactic Acid
Lactic acid is a gentler AHA derived from milk and fruits. It exfoliates dead skin cells while also hydrating and brightening the complexion. It is known to improve skin tone by fading dark spots, hyperpigmentation, and acne scars. Lactic acid is especially beneficial for people with sensitive or dry melanin-rich skin because of its moisturizing properties, making it a preferred choice for chemical peels targeting pigmentation issues. Clinical studies confirm its efficacy in melasma treatment and overall skin brightening
Mandelic Acid
Mandelic acid is an AHA derived from bitter almonds, characterized by its larger molecular size which results in slower skin penetration, leading to reduced irritation. It is excellent for darker skin tones prone to PIH because it gently exfoliates while reducing inflammation and promoting an even skin tone. It effectively treats acne, hyperpigmentation, and signs of aging without harsh side effects. Mandelic acid also balances sebum production and unclogs pores, helping with acne-prone skin
Citric Acid
Citric acid, found naturally in citrus fruits, serves as an antioxidant and AHA exfoliant. It brightens skin by inhibiting excess melanin production, thereby reducing dark spots and uneven pigmentation. It promotes healthy skin cell turnover and prevents oxidative stress-related skin damage. Its brightening properties make it suitable for melanin-rich skin, but it should be used with caution due to potential irritation if overused
Malic Acid
Malic acid is a gentle AHA derived from apples, functioning as an exfoliant that promotes skin renewal, hydration, and brightening. It treats hyperpigmentation, acne scars, and uneven skin tone while being less irritating than stronger AHAs. Malic acid balances pH, moisturizes, and supports anti-aging effects, making it useful for sensitive melanin-rich skin. Some caution points include potential skin irritation and sensitivity, so patch testing is recommended before regular use
Tartaric Acid
Tartaric acid is an AHA with exfoliating and antioxidant properties that brighten skin and minimize hyperpigmentation. It promotes collagen synthesis and cell turnover while having lightening effects on dark spots, sunspots, and age spots. Recognized for its comedolytic (anti-comedo) activity, it also helps clarify pores and improve skin texture. It is well-tolerated across various skin types and tones, including darker skin
Pyruvic Acid
Pyruvic acid is an Alpha-Keto Acid with keratolytic, antimicrobial, and sebostatic properties, used mainly in chemical peels for acne, oily skin, hyperpigmentation, photoaging, and scars. It promotes exfoliation, stimulates collagen and elastin production, reduces sebum production, and improves skin texture and tone. Studies confirm its safety and effectiveness especially in medium-depth peeling procedures, suitable for melanin-rich skin with attention to potential irritation or redness post-treatment
Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs) are oil-soluble acids that penetrate deeper into pores to exfoliate (removing dead skin cell)inside them, making them very effective for oily and acne-prone skin. BHAs also reduce oiliness and have anti-inflammatory properties.
Salicylic Acid is the most common BHA and an oil-soluble exfoliant that penetrates deep into skin pores to dissolve excess sebum and dead skin cells. This deep exfoliation helps clear clogged pores, prevent acne breakouts, and smooth skin texture, making it ideal for oily and acne-prone skin. Salicylic acid also offers anti-inflammatory benefits, reducing redness and irritation often associated with acne.
For people of color, salicylic acid is valuable in treating PIH and post-acne marks due to its anti-inflammatory effects and ability to fade hyperpigmentation gradually. It is used in chemical peels and topical acne treatments, with studies confirming safety and efficacy in darker skin tones
Lipo Hydroxy Acid
Lipo Hydroxy Acid (LHA) is a derivative of salicylic acid with a larger molecular size, leading to slower penetration and gentler exfoliation. It promotes skin renewal, unclogs pores, and treats acne while reducing irritation risk. Suitable for sensitive and melanin-rich skin, LHA also has anti-inflammatory properties, making it a safer alternative to traditional BHA in some cases. It is often used in acne treatments and chemical peels for its gentle efficacy
Polyhydroxy Acids (PHAs)
Polyhydroxy Acids (PHAs) are similar to AHAs but with larger molecules, resulting in gentler exfoliation and additional moisturizing and antioxidant benefits. They are ideal for sensitive or reactive skin due to their mild nature and ability to support the skin barrier
PHAs such as Gluconolactone, Lactobionic Acid, and Galactose are a gentler class of acids characterized by their larger molecular size, resulting in slower skin penetration. This slow absorption offers mild exfoliation while providing hydration and antioxidant protection to support the skin barrier. PHAs are excellent for sensitive and dry skin types, offering benefits like smoothing skin texture, reducing dark spots, and enhancing moisture retention without irritation. Specifically:
Gluconolactone acts as a gentle exfoliator and a humectant, drawing moisture into the skin for a hydrated, plumped appearance. It also has antioxidant and photoprotective effects, making it safe for sensitive skin prone to irritation.
Gluconolactone is a PHA well-known for its mild exfoliating action, which helps improve skin texture, tone, and overall luminosity by removing dead skin cells from the surface. It is prized for its ability to visibly reduce dark spots and enhance skin brightness and is much less irritating than traditional alpha or beta hydroxy acids. Additionally, gluconolactone has antioxidant properties, helping to defend the skin against environmental stressors while maintaining hydration.
Maltobionic Acid is another hydrating PHA, with plant origins, that is notable for its gentle, multi-benefit profile. In addition to effective hydration and strengthening of the skin’s barrier, it acts as a humectant, drawing moisture into the skin and reducing transepidermal water loss. Maltobionic acid offers mild exfoliation, aids in improving skin texture and tone, possesses antioxidant capabilities, and even soothes as it evens out pigment
Lactobionic Acid offers mild exfoliation alongside strong moisturizing, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory properties, making it suitable for sensitive and dry skin. It supports skin elasticity, helps fade dark spots, and strengthens the skin barrier.
Galactose, while less commonly cited alone, falls within the broader PHA group contributing gentle exfoliation and skin support features suitable for sensitive skin types
OTHER EXFOLIATING ACID /ACNE ACID
Trichloroacetic Acid (TCA)
TCA is a medium to deep chemical peeling agent used to treat hyperpigmentation, melasma, acne scars, fine lines, and photoaged skin. It causes controlled skin damage to promote regeneration and even skin tone. While effective for melanin-rich skin when performed by experienced professionals, TCA peels carry risks of irritation, redness, and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation if not carefully done. Regulatory actions and safety precautions highlight the need for medical supervision.
Succinic Acid
Succinic acid is a gentle acid with antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, and anti-aging properties. It helps reduce acne, brighten the skin, soothe irritation, and improve hydration. It is safe for melanin-rich skin and supports barrier function. Succinic acid can help alleviate hyperpigmentation by reducing inflammation and promoting cell turnover without harsh effects.
Bio-Succinic Acid
Bio-succinic acid is a biofermented derivative of succinic acid with additional antimicrobial, anti-acne, antioxidant and skin-soothing effects. It helps regulate inflammation, reduces breakouts, and fades hyperpigmentation while supporting skin hydration and anti-aging. This sustainable, multifunctional acid is well-tolerated and safe for melanin-rich skin, offering a gentler alternative to traditional acids.
BRIGTHENING ACIDS
Brightening acids and agents are vital for addressing uneven skin tone, pigmentation issues, dark spots, and dullness. They work through different mechanisms, from inhibiting melanin synthesis to promoting faster skin renewal and reducing inflammation.
Tranexamic Acid is a potent brightener highly effective in targeting various pigmentation issues, including hyperpigmentation, melasma, sun damage, and scarring. It works by interrupting pathways involved in pigment formation, often producing results that rival the gold standard brightening agents. Tranexamic acid is recognized for being non-irritating, making it suitable for sensitive skin, and is frequently blended with ingredients such as licorice root and vitamin C for comprehensive brightening outcomes.
Kojic Acid
Kojic acid is a byproduct of fungal fermentation with strong tyrosinase-inhibitory effects, making it a potent skin-lightening and brightening agent. It effectively reduces hyperpigmentation, sun damage, melasma, and acne scars by slowing melanin synthesis. Kojic acid is often combined with niacinamide or alpha-arbutin to enhance effects. However, it may cause irritation or contact dermatitis in sensitive skin, and it increases sun sensitivity, so sun protection is essential. Its safety is generally established for concentrations up to 1-2% in cosmetics
Azelaic acid
Azelaic acid is a naturally occurring dicarboxylic acid with strong anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, and tyrosinase-inhibiting properties. It selectively targets overactive melanocytes responsible for hyperpigmentation, treating melasma, PIH, and acne effectively without harming normal skin cells. It is well tolerated by melanin-rich skin and can brighten overall skin tone while reducing redness and acne lesions. Azelaic acid is considered safe and beneficial for darker skin tones and is used commonly in dermatologic practice.
HYDRATING ACIDS
Hydrating acids play a pivotal role in contemporary skincare routines by attracting, retaining, and balancing moisture within the skin, while often offering gentle exfoliation and other benefits.
Hyaluronic Acid
Hyaluronic acid is a powerful humectant naturally found in the skin that retains moisture, providing hydration and plumpness without affecting pigmentation directly. It supports the skin barrier, enhances skin texture, and helps reduce the appearance of fine lines and dryness. For darker skin tones prone to ashy appearance when dry, hyaluronic acid helps maintain moisture balance and can improve overall skin health, often complementing other active ingredients for pigmentation.
Polyglutamic Acid
Polyglutamic acid (PGA) is a natural peptide that offers intense hydration and antioxidant benefits. It inhibits tyrosinase activity, which plays a crucial role in melanin production, thereby helping reduce hyperpigmentation and dark spots. PGA improves skin elasticity, enhances barrier function, and supports skin lightening while being gentle and suitable for sensitive melanin-rich skin
