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Sunscreen active ingredients are classified into two main groups: physical blockers (mineral-based) and chemical filters (organic compounds).
Sunscreen active ingredients are classified into two main groups: physical blockers (mineral-based) and chemical filters (organic compounds). Both are designed to protect the skin from damaging ultraviolet (UV) radiation—all with unique mechanisms and properties.
Physical Blockers
Physical blockers are mineral-based ingredients that sit on the skin’s surface and reflect or scatter UV rays forming a protective shield
The two primary mineral filters are zinc oxide and titanium dioxide.
Zinc Oxide
An inorganic white powder (ZnO), zinc oxide has a long-established safety profile and is widely regarded as one of the safest and most effective sunscreen agents
How It Works
Zinc oxide reflects and scatters both UVA and UVB rays (broad-spectrum protection) by forming a physical barrier on the skin. It covers the entire UV spectrum, making it suitable for all skin types, especially sensitive or acne-prone skin
Applications: Commonly used in mineral (physical) sunscreens, diaper creams, and products for sensitive skin
Titanium Dioxide
Titanium dioxide is a naturally occurring mineral commonly used in mineral sunscreens alongside or instead of zinc oxide
How It Works:
It mainly reflects and scatters UVB and short-wave UVA rays. Titanium dioxide is lighter in texture compared to zinc oxide and helps achieve a clear or less noticeable appearance on application
Applications:
Found in mineral sunscreens and some makeup products formulated for sensitive skin.
Chemical Filters
Chemical filters are organic compounds that absorb UV radiation, convert it into heat, and then release it, thereby preventing UV damage to the skin. Each filter absorbs specific parts of the UV spectrum and is often used in combination for enhanced, broad-spectrum coverage.
Avobenzone
Avobenzone (Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane) is an oil-soluble organic compound that primarily absorbs UVA rays (longer wavelengths associated with skin aging and deep tissue damage)
It offers broad-spectrum UVA protection but is photounstable—meaning it degrades quickly upon sun exposure unless stabilized by other ingredients like octocrylene
Used in many broad-spectrum sunscreens for superior UVA defense.
Avobenzone must be combined with photostabilizers or other filters for durable, long-lasting protection
Oxybenzone
Oxybenzone is a benzophenone derivative and a chemical sunscreen filter
It primarily absorbs UVB and some short UVA rays, offering broad-spectrum protection
Present in many non-mineral sunscreens targeting UVA and UVB
Oxybenzone is readily absorbed through the skin and has raised health and environmental
Octinoxate
Also known as ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, octinoxate is a chemical sunscreen agent that absorbs UVB rays to prevent sunburn. It protects by absorbing UVB wavelengths, but is not photostable and may require stabilizationFound in sunscreens, lip balms, and SPF makeup.
Linked to hormone disruption and found to damage coral reefs, leading to bans in sensitive areas
Octisalate
Octisalate (ethylhexyl salicylate) is a liquid chemical sunscreen agent focused on UVB absorption
It is a weak UVB filter, often combined with other filters for broad-spectrum protection and improve formula stability
Used in many sunscreens, especially to improve photostability and water resistance
Generally safe with a good skin tolerance profile
Homosalate
Homosalate is an organic compound and one of the most widely used UVB absorbers in U.S. sunscreens.
It absorbs UVB rays (wavelengths 295–315 nm) with a peak at 306 nm
Common in sun protection products for sunburn, photoaging, and cancer risk reduction
Octocrylene
Octocrylene is an oil-soluble chemical filter that absorbs UVB and some short UVA rays and is often used to stabilize avobenzone
Besides providing direct UV protection, octocrylene enhances water resistance and photostability of sunscreen formulations
Widely found in sunscreens, makeup, and skincare with SPF.
Can penetrate the skin and raise allergic or environmental concerns
Ecamsule (Mexoryl SX)
Ecamsule (Mexoryl SX) is a water-soluble organic sunscreen ingredient developed by L’Oréal
It primarily absorbs UVA rays (290–390 nm), protecting against deep skin damage
Used in premium sunscreens, offering stable and lightweight UVA protection
Tinosorb S (Bemotrizinol)
Tinosorb S (Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine or Bemotrizinol) is a modern chemical sunscreen agent providing broad-spectrum UVA and UVB protection
It absorbs both UVA and UVB rays, is photostable, and stabilizes other less-stable filters such as
Mostly found in European and Australian sunscreens for high, stable protection
Tinosorb M
Tinosorb M (Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol) is another innovative sunscreen ingredient with a triple action: absorbs, scatters, and reflects UV radiation
Tinosorb M offers true broad-spectrum protection across both UVA and UVB, and is considered photostable and suitable for sensitive skin
Aminobenzoic Acid (PABA)
PABA is a chemical UVB filter and one of the earliest used sunscreen ingredients.It absorbs UVB radiation, dissipating it as heat.
Previously common in sunscreen, but now less favored due to high allergy and photosensitivity rates
Cinoxate
Cinoxate is an ester-based chemical filter approved for sunscreen use, though not widely seen in current formulations.It absorbs potent UVB rays and stabilizes other sunscreen ingredients
Dioxybenzone (Benzophenone-8)
Dioxybenzone is a benzophenone derivative acting as a chemical filter for UVB and short-wave UVA
Absorbs and stabilizes light in both the UVA and UVB ranges, inhibiting sunburn and underlying DNA damage
Meradimate
Meradimate (menthyl anthranilate) is a synthetic UVA-absorbing filter
It provides partial UVA protection (up to 336 nm) and is used to complement other UVB filters Included in specialized sunscreens, insect repellents, and some cosmetics.
This comprehensive breakdown aims to demystify the core sunscreen and preservative ingredients commonly encountered in modern skincare and cosmetic products, highlighting how each works, their safety profiles, and their specific roles in safeguarding both product integrity and consumer health.
