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Chemical hair relaxers have been a longstanding part of Black women’s hair care routines,
cherished for their promise of sleek, manageable hair. However, recent medical research has
unveiled alarming health risks associated with these products, raising critical questions about their safety and regulatory oversight. This blog post will answer real search questions like, “Are chemical hair relaxers harmful?” and “What are the health risks of chemical hair relaxers?” by providing a detailed, medically grounded perspective to empower you with medically backed information and authentic insights to make informed hair care choices. We will explore the hidden dangers of chemical hair relaxers and cancer risk, analyze the health risks associated with chemical hair straighteners, detail hair relaxer side effects and cancer links, and discuss safer alternatives to hair straightening chemicals, alongside ongoing hair relaxer lawsuits and cancer claims.
The Problem: Unveiling the Hidden Toxic Chemicals and Their Effects
Chemical hair relaxers are designed to straighten curly or coiled hair by chemically altering its structure, primarily by breaking disulfide bonds in the hair cortex layer. The active ingredients often include highly alkaline, caustic agents like sodium hydroxide (found in “lye” relaxers) or calcium hydroxide (in “no-lye” relaxers). These potent chemicals can cause painful scalp burns,lesions, and structural hair damage even with proper use. Critically, these scalp injuries can create openings that allow harmful chemicals to be absorbed more easily into your body and bloodstream.
Of particular concern are endocrine-disrupting chemicals (EDCs) such as phthalates and
parabens, which are commonly included in these products as fragrances and preservatives.
EDCs can mimic or interfere with your body’s natural hormones, especially estrogen, leading to hormonal imbalances. This disruption can manifest as reproductive disorders, altered
reproductive hormones, and an increased risk of hormone-related cancers. For instance, a 2018 scientific report found dozens of hormone-disrupting chemicals in 18 different hair products marketed to Black women, with 84 percent of these toxic ingredients not listed on the packaging. These chemicals can also contribute to the early onset of puberty in young girls, which in turn increases the risk for metabolic syndromes such as obesity, Type 2 diabetes, and cardiovascular disease in adulthood.
Another dangerous ingredient is formaldehyde, a known human carcinogen. Products marketed as “formaldehyde-free” may still contain chemicals like methylene glycol or glycolic acid, which release formaldehyde gas when heated, posing a danger not only to users but also to hairstylists who have frequent exposure. The FDA has identified formaldehyde as a human carcinogen that can cause respiratory tract cancers, as well as irritation of the eyes, nose,lungs, and throat.
"Black Women Are Affected More: A Serious Health Problem"
The health risks associated with chemical hair relaxers are not evenly distributed; Black women bear a disproportionate burden due to aggressive marketing of these products within their communities and societal pressures to conform to Eurocentric beauty standards. This targeted advertising, combined with high usage rates, leads to greater exposure to these harmful chemicals. Approximately 9 out of 10 Black women in the U.S. have used hair relaxers at some point in their lives, often starting from childhood or adolescence. Some studies indicate that 94% of Black women under 45 and 89% over 45 have reported hair relaxer use. Black women purchase 60% of chemical straighteners in the United States, despite being only 6.5% of the
population.
The consequences of this disproportionate exposure are devastating, leading to alarming health disparities. The incidence of endometrial cancer, for example, has risen significantly in Black women. In 2017, Black women surpassed White women in the incidence of endometrial cancer, reaching a rate of 28 per 100,000, compared to White women’s rate of 27.5 per 100,000. This rate further increased to 29 per 100,000 in 2019, exceeding White women’s rate of 27.6 per 100,000. This coincides with a generation of Black women who would have had lifelong access to hair relaxers since their commercial availability in 1971.
Mounting Medical Evidence: The Cancer Links
Recent studies have highlighted significant risks associated with frequent and long-term use of chemical hair relaxers:
Uterine Cancer: A landmark 2022 NIH Sister Study found that women who frequently used
chemical hair-straightening products, a majority of whom were Black women, were two and a half times more likely to develop uterine cancer. Specifically, frequent use (four or more times per year) increases the incidence of endometrial cancer by a hazard ratio of 2.55. A December 2023 study showed that postmenopausal Black women who used relaxers more than twice a year or for more than five years had a greater than 50% increased risk of uterine cancer compared to women who never or rarely used relaxers.
Ovarian Cancer: A 2021 study published in Carcinogenesis revealed that frequent use of hair
relaxers (more than four times a year) was associated with an increased risk of ovarian cancer, with a 50% higher risk.
Uterine Fibroids: The Black Women’s Health Study in 2012 found an association between hair
relaxer use and fibroids, with a higher risk for women who had used the products for at least 10 years compared to those who used them rarely or not at all.
Breast Cancer: Studies, including the Sister Study in 2020, have linked chemical hair
straighteners to an increased risk of breast cancer; those who used straighteners at least every five to eight weeks had a 31 percent higher breast cancer risk compared with 18 percent for less frequent use . An investigation in 2022 found that women who used relaxers before age 12 and those who used the products for longer than 10 years were more prone to larger and more aggressive breast tumors.
Current Legal Actions and Regulatory Efforts
This mounting evidence has led to widespread legal action against manufacturers of chemical hair relaxers. Major brands like L’Oréal, Revlon, SoftSheen-Carson, Strength of Nature Global, Dabur International, Dabur USA Inc., and Namaste Laboratories, LLC are now facing over 10,000 lawsuits in federal multidistrict litigation (MDL). These lawsuits allege that these companies knew about the dangers of their products but failed to warn consumers, continuing to market them aggressively, especially to Black women. The legal claims include failure to warn,breach of warranty, design defect, and negligence. As of January 2, 2025, the hair relaxer MDLgrew to 9,819 actions pending.
On the regulatory front, the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) historically had limited
authority over cosmetics safety; however, this is rapidly evolving with the passage of the
Modernization of Cosmetics Regulation Act (MoCRA) in December 2022. MoCRA significantly
expands the FDA’s capacity to oversee, regulate, and recall unsafe cosmetic products. The FDA has proposed a ban on formaldehyde-containing hair straighteners, citing both short-term adverse health effects (like breathing problems) and long-term effects (including an increased risk of hormone-related cancers). However, the proposed ban has faced repeated delays, and it is unclear when it will be officially released. At the state level, Maryland and California plan to ban formaldehyde from all personal care products starting in 2025.
Solutions: Embracing Safer Hair Care and Empowering Choices
The good news is, you have choices, and your health is your greatest asset. It’s time to prioritize well-being over outdated beauty standards. Many Black women are now embracing safer alternatives:
Natural Hair Care:
Embrace your beautiful natural texture. You can use nourishing ingredients like shea butter, coconut oil, aloe vera, and essential oils to hydrate and moisturize your hair without harmful chemicals. Maintaining scalp health with gentle cleansers and treatments like hot oil treatments or apple cider vinegar rinses can help balance
pH and reduce irritation.
Low-Tox Styling Options:
Consider styles like silk presses, which use heat but avoid chemicals, or protective styles such as braids, twists, and wigs, which can minimize daily manipulation and exposure to harmful ingredients. While heat styling should be done carefully to avoid damage, it can be a safer chemical-free option for straightened looks. You can also opt for organic and non-toxic products, checking for plant-based ingredients and avoiding common toxicants like Cocamide DEA, petroleum-based parabens, Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS), Formaldehyde, Isopropyl Alcohol, Propylene Glycol, 4-Dioxane, Benzaldehyde, Benzel Acetate, and Ethanol.
Scrutinize Ingredient Lists:
Become an informed consumer. The term “natural” is not regulated, so look beyond marketing claims and diligently check ingredient lists for EDCs like phthalates, parabens, and formaldehyde-releasing chemicals.
Advocate for Change:
Support initiatives like the CROWN Act, which prohibits discrimination based on hair texture, and demand stronger regulations for cosmetic products. The European Union regulates more than 1,300 ingredients for use in cosmetics, whereas the
U.S. FDA prohibits or restricts only nine ingredients that have been proven harmful to human
health.
Final Thoughts: Protecting Your Crown
The evidence is clear: chemical hair relaxers pose significant, often overlooked risks to health, with cancer links that particularly affect Black women. By raising awareness, advocating for stricter regulations, and choosing safer hair care alternatives, we can reclaim control over our crowns and our health. It is important to make intentional hair care choices, knowing that true beauty lies in self-love and valuing your health above all else. Your crown is priceless, and it’s time to protect it by protecting your health.
